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Legend
has it that, many centuries ago, Touareg tribesmen of the central Sahara put on
the veil to trick their enemies into thinking they were women.
The
trick worked, the enemy was defeated and ever since then the Touareg, a Berber
tribe of North Africa, have clung to a tradition which sets them apart from
other Moslems: the men are veiled and the women are not.
Gone
are the days of tribal raids, great camel caravans and endless treks in search
of desert pasture. But men in the oasis of Djanet, near the Libyan and Niger
borders, still wrap their faces in a long knotted turban which at times leaves
only a slit for the eyes.
With
family its OK to let the turban down, said Sakilil Dawdy, 34, a driver with
the Algerian state hydrocarbons firm Sonotrach. But on the street, in front of
strangers or as a guest, you must wear it. Its a question of honour.
The
Touareg turban, or shesh, has come to symbolise the identity of a proud
warrior tribe of nomads which has preserved its language and customers under
Turkish, French and Arab rule.
About
700,000 Touareg live in the Saharan and Sahel regions of Algeria, Libya, Niger
and Mali, although fewer than half maintain the nomadic or semi-nomadic
pastoral life of their forefathers.
The
turban is increasingly discarded by the young, who pick up Arab
or Westerns ways at school and through television, beamed to Djanet by
satellite from Algiers 2,000 kilometres to the north-west.
But
few men over 30 fall to cover their face when they leave home for the fields,
the office or a simple village errand. Even the young cover up on special
occasions and say that beneath their jeans and Western-style haircuts they
remain true to Touareg roots.
There
are old men whose women have never seen their mouths in 30 years of marriage,
said Hamou Dahou, director of the Tim Beur travel agency.
The
Touareg veil has fascinated visitors ever since the Arab traveller and observer
Ibn Khaldoun toured North Africa in the 14th century and found most Berber
desert tribesmen wrapped up tightly in a ball of cloth.
The
turban humidifies the mouth and nose in the dry desert air and protects them
like a filter when wind whips up clouds of choking sand. But the custom is so
closely linked honour that one French ethnologist spoke of a taboo of the
mouth.
Showing
your mouth was considered a sign of greed, said Sheikh Amoud, 78, son of a
Touareg resistance hero of the same name who fought the French in the Algerian
Sahara and later the Italians in Libyas Fezzan province.
In
the old days, the first time a boy put on the turban there was a big ceremony
because it meant he had become a man, said Hadj Suleiman, 60, a member of
Djanets town council.
A
special indigo turban was brought from Niger and there was dancing and music.
The boy was given a dagger and taught the principles of our tradition
courage, honesty, fidelity, never to cry and never to strike his wife. Now the
young put on the turban when they feel like it.
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